Helmut Zimmerman, the charming, inveterate restaurateur and well known Pattaya character is retiring from his popular restaurant, Pagoda, and passing the undertaking to a new proprietor/chef team of Jens Klein and his partner Joe. 

This elegant al fresco terrace and restaurant is a huge hit with Pattaya’s culinary cognoscenti.   Pagoda manages a successful mix between informality and smartness with luxury-style dining without the need for deep pockets.  The ambiance is comfortable and pleasing and the menu a very nice combination of Mediterranean specialities with Northern European overtones plus a considerable Thai selection.

For those who enjoy a gastronomic set menu, here at Pagoda it is priced at B.790 for 5 gourmet courses.  Plus there is a whole page of weekly specials which keeps the menu fresh with new suggestions to tempt the regulars.  However,  the night we visited, Mick and I opted to choose from the a la carte menu.  Choices are as diverse as they are plentiful and run the gamut of  gourmet global cuisine.  Mick decided to start the proceedings with a cold appetiser of smoked salmon and gravalax served with horseradish, dill mustard sauce, capers, egg and onions  (B.280) while I decided on an original Mushrooms Bordelaise style.  Both were excellent good quality recipes with attention to detail especially the sauces with the smoked fish.  Included in the other starters are warm smoked duck breast with avocado, leaf spinach gratinated with ham and cheese,  home made liver pate (B.190) and a bevy of salads and soups including creamy leek and cheese, beef bouillon and a velvety soup of wild mushrooms (B.130).

Chicken dishes are well represented with various renditions of stuffed breasts, fricassee and the famous French recipe, coq au vin, which was the main course Mick selected.  I’m a fish lover and on chef’s recommendation plumped for poached salmon with Pernod sauce, lumpfish roe, boiled potatoes and aniseed spinach (B.290).  If you are dining “a deux” there is a special menu featuring Chateau Briand for either B.790 (local beef) or B.1,150 with Angus beef fillet plus fondue Bourguignon served with various sauces, French fries and salad.  In fact, beef is a house speciality and highlights extravagant recipes from fillet steak wrapped with bacon in a red wine sauce to pepper style in a Cognac cream sauce.   For veal fans, New Zealand veal sirloin, served with a morel sauce, tagliatelle and broccoli (B.520) would hit the spot.

Pork is always a popular choice and here at Pagoda is served piccata Milanese with penne and tomato sauce, breaded and stuffed with cheese and ham, with gorgonzola, and  home-made croquettes or Zurich style with rosti potatoes and salad.  From the extensive wine list we enjoyed a bottle of Valpolicello Classico Sartori at B.1250.  House carafes are also available at B.415 for half litre or by the glass at B.125.   

The dessert menu presents mouth watering options such as hot dark plums or cherries served with vanilla ice cream, ice cream cake, chocolate terrine served with pear, apple tart or for a flamboyant finale, Crepes suzettes with orange sauce and ice cream.  

Pagoda has undoubtedly found the formula to give his customers what they want and it clearly has a loyal following.  The service was a little erratic the night we visited but hopefully this was just a one-off hic-up.  Jens explained how he has eschewed high end pricing for realism of expectations and customer satisfaction and sincerely hopes that old customers as well as the new  will visit and judge for themselves.    The stylishness here is evident,  the food wholesome and unpretentious and the surroundings charming whether you dine al fresco on the roomy terrace or in air-conditioned calm of the restaurant.      

Pagoda is located in Jomtien Complex.  Open daily from 18.00 till late.  Web:  www.pagoda-pattaya.com.  Tel:  084 55 11 880.