by Mick & Di, The Food Lovers
Yes, there’s a new chef in town and he’s pretty much circumnavigated the globe to get to us. Hailing from the fascinating city of Berlin, he’s travelled the world honing his skills in 5-star kitchens including the Grand Hyatt in Dubai, Movenpick in Ghana and the ultra-luxurious Siam Kempinski in Bahrain, amongst many others. He’s young, dynamic enthusiastic, and passionate to introduce his cuisine to the award-winning flagship restaurant at the Royal Cliff Hotels.
Fine dining doesn’t get any more refined than at the Royal Grill Room, plus it houses one of the world’s leading wine lists and consistently wins the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. From the moment you enter and are shown to your table, you just intuitively know how wonderful the evening is going to be. From its stylish interior bedecked in the richness of teakwood and the soaring arched windows, the well turned out waiters, the cool wine cellar, the soft, melodious sounds of the piano player, it just oozes with luxury, extravagance and pleasure. So let’s get started on the food!
Our tasting menu was modishly launched with an amuse-bouche of green pea ice cream and a shot glass of hot pea cappuccino soup. Intriguing flavours hit our palates with the iciness of the bright green ice cream making incredibly good friends with the comfort of the soup with its on-trend foam topping.
Our appetizer was next, a duet of salmon and tuna. The salmon had been marinated in beetroot for 24 hours not only to tenderise but also to impart its rich earthy flavours. The tuna tataki consisted of squares of sashimi graded encrusted tuna just shown the pan for seconds to relieve the rawness in a delightful way and crowned with a tempura king prawn served in a puddle of horseradish crème. Accompanying all this was a culinary plastic transparent pipette filled with a dressing to be squeezed over the fish. We loved it all.
A soup course then hit the table. The Royal Grill Room is famous for its soup with Chef Walter’s legendary tomato soup with gin always a winner. This time it was Chef Romano’s signature lobster bisque flambéed with Hennessy Cognac. It was a swim in the sea, the richness of the crustaceans bathed in its smooth velvety texture were amazing and served with a crispy crabmeat cigar for dunking; it was a triumph.
For the main course we were served a deconstructed tournedos Rossini. Prime beef had been prepared in its sous vide water bath to medium rare condition and creatively presented on the plate with shavings of black truffle, baby vegetables, sensational deluxe foie gras potato praline balls, a small stack of pistachio dust and escorted by a thrilling masala infused jus. White and green asparagus tips attended the beef as well as white and orange heritage carrots. Wow, what a dish. Layers of textures and flavours bounced off each other and returned for a knockout taste reaction.
Could we manage dessert? We couldn’t leave without it – so we requested one serving with two spoons. The sweet vision appeared from across the room and we were so pleased we were ready with our spoons to tuck into a Dacquoise coconut feuilletee (a light airy cake made from almond meringue) together with a strawberry and vanilla ice cream. Shards of chocolate were hidden in the cake and white chocolate ears decorated the confection – it was patisserie perfection.
Throughout our dinner we were drinking the eminently acceptable house “Gold Selection” from Australia. We commenced with the elegant Chardonnay and enjoyed a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon with the beef.
Soontorn tickled the ivories, the staff were exemplary and as you can tell from this rave review we had a truly wonderful experience. Thank you to Chef Romano and your brigade for such a gourmet dinner – long may you hang your toque in this kitchen.
To dine at the Royal Grill Room and Wine Cellar is a stellar experience. From the minute you step through the door you are cocooned in luxury and spoilt with thoughtful (almost telepathic) service, the food is exquisite and, considering the eminence of this restaurant, not extraordinarily pricey. Their 3-course set menu is B.999 ++ and with wine B.1,559++. Of course there is a full a la carte menu. Do check their website for details of the monthly-changing set menu.
Royal Grill Room and Wine Cellar
Royal Cliff Beach Hotel
Pratamnak Road, Pattaya
Open from 6:30 to 10:30 pm (last order) and closed on Tuesdays
Tel: 038 250 421
Amex, Visa and Mastercard accepted